Scheme of a car strobe light on a powerful LED. Diagram and do-it-yourself production of a strobe light for installing the ignition (UOZ)

The correct operation of a car engine depends on how the ignition is set. This is due to the fact that the combustible mixture entering the combustion chamber must be completely ignited. To install the ignition, a strobe light is used, which you can make yourself or purchase at a specialized store. We will discuss below how easy it is to make a strobe light for installing the ignition with your own hands.

The purpose of the strobe, the parts that will be needed for its manufacture

The strobe light for installing the ignition is used so that the car enthusiast can set the correct and timely supply electric current, which forms a spark. It serves to ignite the incendiary mixture in the combustion chamber of the cylinders of gasoline power units.

The correct operation of the motor and its power depend on the timeliness of its supply. Therefore, correctly set ignition is necessary for the power unit to work well.

In specialized stores, this device costs from 1,000 to 7,000 rubles. Therefore, in order to save money, it is better to make homemade strobe light to install the ignition yourself. To assemble it (I did it myself), you will need to spend up to 500 rubles.

In general, a strobe light is a simple circuit and design. It is based on the principle of the effect of a spark on the ice of a light bulb, which can be taken from any flashlight. Thus, it is easy to set the ignition angle, which will ideally meet the requirements for timely and complete ignition of the fuel mixture.

Let's look at the list of parts that you will need to easily make your own strobe light:

• transistor marked KT 315;
• thyristor, which is marked KU 112 A;
• copper wires;
• flashlight with diode bulbs (there should be at least 6 of them, more possible);
• timer, used for some homemade strobes;
• low-frequency diode marked V 2;
• resistors, with a power of 0.125 W;
• a relay that has the index RWH/SH-112D;
• 1 meter long cord to power the device;
• base for collecting the microcircuit, made of insulating special material;
• special terminals (clamps).

Here are the components you will need to install the strobe light yourself. They can be purchased in special stores or at radio markets.

The circuit of the simplest strobe looks like this:

It is important to remember that to make this device it is best to take the body of a simple diode flashlight, or from a flashlight. All the parts will fit there, including the microcircuit on which the parts will be located.

Strobe assembly

The assembly process takes place at home using a soldering iron, using the following algorithm (the body of the flashlight is taken as the basis):

• drilling a hole on the back wall of the flashlight body, this is necessary in order to route the power cord;
• soldered to the ends of the cord special terminals, the main thing is not to confuse the polarity (they are taken in different colors);
• sensor placement on the right or left side of the body;
• drilling a hole, it is done at the location of the sensor, a cord is inserted into it (a cord is laid), which is connected to contact X 1, indicated in the diagram;
• assembling a microcircuit, this is done according to the above scheme, using a soldering iron (if the car enthusiast is not good at assembling such circuits, then he needs to contact a specialist in this field);
• soldering copper wire to the main core of the wire, it will serve as a special strobe sensor;
• insulation of all connections special tape.

Here's how to make a strobe light with your hands with the lowest financial costs.

It is important to remember that such a device can be used not only for setting the ignition, but also for checking spark plugs and adjusting the regulator. That's how much useful functions it can perform for the car enthusiast.

Types of homemade stroboscopes

Above is a diagram and algorithm for creating a simple strobe light. Some craftsmen also recommend making such devices based on a timer or LEDs.

Let's look at the strobe circuit, which includes a timer:

This design is more complex, so if a car enthusiast thinks that he cannot assemble it on his own, it is better to contact a specialist and purchase all the necessary parts. If there is no domestically produced timer, it can be replaced with a foreign one, which should be marked NE 555. And it is better to use diodes for such a circuit with the designation KD 521.

It is interesting to know that having made such a device with a timer, you can install a regulator on it, by switching which it will begin to work like a tachometer. At the same time, even a weak battery charge will not affect its operation.

Now let's look at a circuit that allows you to make a strobe using LEDs. It should be noted right away that they are characterized by increased reliability; it can be used even in bright daylight.

The diagram of such a strobe is as follows:

The entire circuit will be based on a microcircuit marked 155 AG 1, which can be triggered by pulses that have negative polarity. Resistances suitable for it are R 1, R 2, R 3, resistor R 6. Resistances limit the amplitude of the incoming signal, and capacitance C 4 regulates the duration of the signal coming from the motor.

Setting up the strobe

After this device is manufactured, it needs to be configured. It happens this way:

• the engine is warming up, it needs to be started, warmed up, and then switched to idle mode;
• The strobe is connected by terminals to the battery;
• a copper wire (sensor) is wound around the core of the cylinder;
• the light that will be created is directed to a special point marked on the body;
• find a fixed plane (point) on the motor flywheel;
• Rotate the body of the ignition element so that the two points coincide, and then fix it in this place.

After these manipulations, the device is ready to perform its functions. The main thing is not to violate this installation order.

You can make a strobe light for setting the ignition yourself by purchasing the necessary parts. After that, it is customized and will serve the car enthusiast no worse than those sold in stores. In addition to setting the ignition, such devices, made using a timer or LED lights, can perform other useful functions.

A stroboscope is a very familiar device that has found wide application in many branches of science and technology. A simple example of a strobe light is police flashing lights. Such flashing lights are considered a special signal and their use is illegal. But despite this, some adventurers who are looking for adventure on their own are accustomed to using illegal things to distinguish themselves from others. To be honest, I consider myself one of them, so I decided to make a “MENT” strobe light with my own hands and will share the diagram with you.

LED strobe circuit

Of all the schemes that can be found on the Internet, this one the simplest and fully working. Let me remind you that such a strobe differs from a simple flasher in that there you can set the blinking frequency and the number of LED flashing sequences. Simply put, each LED blinks 2, 3 (up to 4 times), then switches and the second LED starts blinking. It turns out to be a complete analogue of police stroboscopes, which are best used in the remote surroundings of your area, otherwise you will face a hefty fine for using a special signal.

The strobe circuit does not contain an MK. The master oscillator is everyone’s favorite timer 555. The CD4017 counter has a domestic analogue (K561IE8). This is a decimal counter-divider with 10 decrypted outputs.

The signal from the outputs of the microcircuit is amplified by transistor switches; there is a very wide choice. If you are going to connect LEDs, then you can eliminate transistors altogether; to power more powerful LEDs or LED assemblies, you can use any LF bipolar transistors - KT819/805/805/829, etc.

You can connect more powerful lamps to the strobe, for example, halogen lamps from car headlights with a power of 100 watts or more. To do this, you just need to use powerful field switches IRFZ44, IRF3205, IRL3705, IRF1405 and other N-channel power transistors of appropriate power.
The strobe light was mounted in a housing from an electronic transformer; the housing simultaneously serves as a heat sink for the transistors, although no overheating was observed on them.

Such a homemade strobe can work for hours; the circuit does not require additional adjustment and works immediately after switching on. The device is powered from the car's on-board network of 12 Volts, although it starts working from 6 Volts.

Video of a homemade strobe light in action:

If you like to do the maintenance of your car yourself, then to reduce the cost of purchasing a tool, you can make a strobe light for ignition yourself.

What is a strobe

A stroboscope is a device for observing objects making rapid, periodically repeating movements. To do this, it illuminates a moving object with bright flashes of light, repeated with a frequency equal to the frequency of movement of this object. In this light, a moving object appears motionless. In a car engine, using a strobe light, you can determine the ignition timing angle. To do this, you need to synchronize the flashes with ignition pulses in the first cylinder, and direct the light to the TDC and ignition timing marks, illuminating the crankshaft pulley with a mark.

Factory-made stroboscopes usually have an inertia-free flash lamp as a light flash emitter, which allows you to adjust the ignition timing even in bright sunlight. However, it has a short service life and is not always on sale. Therefore, with the advent of LEDs with a luminous intensity of more than 2000 mcd, it became more convenient to use them when making a strobe light with your own hands. To convince us of the significant superiority of the luminous flux parameters of the new LEDs, let us recall that the AL307, with the same current consumption, has a luminous intensity of only 10–16 mcd.

(diagram for video materials in the description under the video)

Materials

The strobe circuit proposed for making it yourself is simple and does not require complex settings. To make a simple strobe for adjusting the ignition timing with your own hands, you will need the following tools, parts and materials:

1. Pocket flashlight with a large enough battery compartment.
2. LEDs KIPD21P-K – 9 pcs.
3. Chip K561TM2 (two two-stage D-triggers). Russian analogues: K176TM2, 564TM2; imported analogue – CD4013/HEF4013.
4. Transistor KT315B – 2 pcs. (VT1, VT2); KT815A – 1 pc. (VT3).
5. Trimmer resistor SPZ-196 or SP5-1 with a resistance of 33 kOhm.
6. Fixed resistors 5.1 Ohm - 3 pcs., 3 kOhm - 1 pc., 15 kOhm - 1 pc., 20 kOhm - 2 pcs., 330 kOhm - 1 pc., with a power of at least 0.125 W.
7. Diode KD213 or any other medium power with U arr. max not less than 16 V.
8. Non-polar capacitors KM-5, K73-9 or others. C1 must have an operating voltage of at least 200 V, the rest not less than 16 V. 0.068 µF - 3 pcs., 47 pF - 1 pc.
9. Any toggle switch to turn on the power of the device.
10. 1 m of shielded wire (for example, antenna).
11. 3 alligator clips.
12. A small piece of foil PCB 1 mm thick.
13. Stranded double insulated copper wire – 1.5 m.
14. Glue gun.
15. Soldering iron, solder, flux.

Device design

The body of the strobe light will be a flashlight. The circuit is assembled by hanging installation. The finished circuit is filled with hot plastic from a glue gun, and after the filling has hardened, it is placed in the flashlight battery compartment. The power and signal cables are routed out through holes drilled in the housing. You need to solder clips to the ends of the power wires, indicating the polarity. Connect to the strobe input antenna cable. Solder an alligator clip to the central core of the input cable. After connecting the strobe to the car engine, it will use it to send synchronization pulses from the high-voltage ignition wire to the input. To make this possible, it is enough to put it on the insulation of the high-voltage ignition wire of the first cylinder of the car engine. The synchronization pulse will go through the capacitance formed by the central core of the ignition wire and the clamp. That is, a simple homemade capacitive sensor will consist of an alligator clip placed on a high-voltage wire.

It is most convenient to make a light emitter by mounting a group of LEDs close to each other in the center of a disk made of foil PCB. It should be installed so that the LEDs, having passed through the hole for the light bulb in the reflector, are as close as possible to the location of the filament. You can attach the textolite to the reflector using a glue gun.

Nutrition

The device is powered from the vehicle's on-board electrical network. Diode VD1 protects the device from accidental connection of reverse polarity power. The synchronization pulse from the capacitive sensor through the circuit C1, R2 is supplied to the input of the trigger DD1.1, turned on as a standby multivibrator. Pulse high level triggers the waiting multivibrator, the trigger switches, and capacitor C3, charged in the initial state, begins to recharge through resistor R3. After approximately 15 ms, this capacitor will recharge enough that the voltage at the R input will again reset the flip-flop to its original state.

So the waiting multivibrator reacts to each positive pulse from the capacitive sensor, producing synchronously with the input high-level rectangular output pulse of constant duration (15 ms), which is determined by the values ​​of resistor R3 and capacitor C3. The sequence of these pulses from the non-inverting output of trigger DD1.1 is supplied to the input of the second standby multivibrator, assembled according to a similar circuit on trigger DD1.2. The pulse duration of the second node reaches 1.5 ms and is determined by the parameters of resistor R4 and capacitor C4. The output voltage of the second trigger opens triodes VT1 – VT3, and current pulses of 0.7 to 0.8 A pass through the LEDs.

Some subtleties

Despite the fact that the current value is significantly greater than the permissible value for these LEDs (the maximum permissible direct pulse current is only 100 mA), there should be no fear of overheating and failure. Because the duration of the pulses is short, and their duty cycle in normal mode is no less than 15. The brightness of the flashes of nine LEDs allows you to use the device even during the day.

The editors of the Radio magazine report that in order to verify the functionality of the device, it was tested.

The LEDs successfully withstood a pulsed current of 1 A for an hour, and not even a slight overheating was detected. Typically, the operating time of the device does not exceed 5 minutes, and the current passing through them in this design is somewhat less.

The purpose of the standby multivibrator on the DD1.1 trigger is to protect the LEDs from failure when the crankshaft rotation speed increases. Typically, the device is operated at a crankshaft speed close to idle (from 800 to 1200 rpm). Since the duration of the flashes is constant, as the crankshaft rotation speed increases, the duty cycle of the current pulses through the LEDs will decrease, and, as a consequence, the heating of the latter will increase. Therefore, the duration of the pulses of the waiting multivibrator on the DD1.1 trigger is chosen such that when the crankshaft rotation speed reaches 2 thousand rpm -1, the duty cycle of its output pulse sequence approaches 1. With a further increase in the rotation speed, and with it the input pulses, the cessation occurs they synchronize the output pulses, and the node begins to generate a sequence of average frequency pulses, which is much less dangerous for LEDs.

Device setup

It has been experimentally established that the duration of flashes should be from 0.5 to 0.8 ms. With shorter flash durations, when setting the advance angle using a strobe, the feeling of a lack of light is great. If the duration is longer, then the moving mark seems to be smeared. It is easy to select the required duration with your own hands, without measuring, but guided only by visual sensations. It is regulated using trimming resistor R4. The circuit does not require any further settings.

Using the device

To set the advance angle (moment) with your own hands, use a device to illuminate the setting marks while the car engine is idling. One of them is located on the rotating parts of the car engine (on the crankshaft pulley or on the flywheel). The second mark is stationary, it is located either on the cover of the front part of the car’s cylinder block, or on the gearbox housing. If in the light of the device the movable mark appears to be opposite the stationary mark, the car’s ignition is normal and does not require adjustment of the timing (angle) of advance.

If the marks do not match, to adjust the timing, you need to change the position of the distributor accordingly. To delay the ignition timing, you need to turn the distributor in the direction of rotation of the slider, and to do it earlier, in the opposite direction. If sparking in your car is controlled by a microprocessor, look for a faulty sensor or entrust the solution to this problem to professionals.

Owners of carburetor cars are familiar firsthand with the difficulties of the ignition adjustment process. This is usually done by ear, which is not very convenient. Using a strobe light this process can be made easier. However, industrial devices are quite expensive, so many people make a strobe light for ignition with their own hands.

Disadvantages of industrial models

Industrial devices often have certain disadvantages that make the usefulness of the device highly questionable.

To begin with, the price for them can be quite significant. For example, modern digital models will cost a car enthusiast 1000 rubles. More functional models cost from 1700. Advanced stroboscopes cost about 5500 rubles. Needless to say, a car strobe light (made with your own hands) will cost a car enthusiast 100-200 rubles.

Often in factory devices, the manufacturer uses a particularly expensive gas-discharge lamp. The lamp has a certain lifespan, and after some time it will have to be replaced. And this in itself is tantamount to purchasing a new factory device.

Why is it worth making a strobe light yourself?

The shortcomings of factory-made and technological devices push the car enthusiast to independently manufacture this device. In addition, it is much cheaper to equip this equipment with LEDs instead of an expensive lamp. An ordinary laser pointer or flashlight is suitable as a source of diodes or a donor.

The remaining parts will also cost pennies. You don't need any special tools. The budget for the manufacturing process of a strobe light will be no more than 100 rubles.

How to make a strobe light with your own hands?

There are schemes and options for manufacturing great amount. However, for the most part, all projects to create this gadget are similar. Let's see what you need for assembly.

We will need a simple transistor KT315. It can be easily found in an old Soviet radio. The designation may be slightly different, but it doesn't matter. Thyristor KU112A can be easily obtained from the power supply of an old TV. You can also find small resistors there. Since we are making an LED strobe light with our own hands, we will naturally need LED flashlight. To do this, it is better to purchase the cheapest one from China. In addition, you need to stock up on a capacitor up to 16 V, any low-frequency diode, a small 12 A relay, wires, alligators, a 0.5 m long shielded wire, as well as a small piece of copper wire.

Assembling the device

The circuit is small, but you can place it right in that same Chinese lantern. So, it is advisable to pass wires through the hole in the back of the flashlight to power the device. It is better to solder crocodiles at the ends of the wires. You need to make a hole in the side wall, if the Chinese have not already made one. The shielded wire will be routed through this hole. At the opposite end, it is necessary to insulate the braid and solder the same piece of copper wire to the main core of the wire. This will be the sensor.

Device diagram and operating principle

Once current is applied through the power wires, the capacitor will charge very quickly through the resistor. When a certain charge threshold is reached, voltage will be supplied through the resistor to the opening contact of the transistor. The relay will work here. When the relay closes, it will create a circuit of a thyristor, an LED and a capacitor. Then, through the divider, the pulse reaches the control output of the thyristor. Next, the thyristor will open, and the capacitor will discharge to the LEDs. As a result, the strobe light, made with your own hands, will flash brightly.

Through a resistor and a thyristor, the base terminal of the transistor is connected to the common wire. Because of this, the transistor will close and the relay will turn off. The glow time of the LEDs increases, since the contact does not break immediately. But the contact will break, and the thyristor will be de-energized. The circuit will return to its base position until a new impulse is received.

By changing the capacitance of the capacitor, you can change the glow time. If you choose a larger capacitor, the DIY LED strobe will glow brighter and longer.

Device on a chip

The main part of this simple circuit is a DD1 type microcircuit. This is the so-called one-shot 155AG1. In this circuit, it is triggered only by negative impulses. The control signal will go to the KT315 transistor, and it will generate these negative pulses. Resistors 150 K ohm, 1 k ohm, 10 k ohm, as well as the KS139 zener diode work as amplitude limiters for the incoming signal from the car ignition.

A 0.1 mF capacitor together with a resistance of 20 kOhm will set the desired duration of the pulses that will be generated by the microcircuit. With such a capacitor capacity, the pulse duration will be approximately 2 ms.

Then, from the 6th leg of the microcircuit, the pulses, which by this moment will be synchronized with the ignition of the car, will go to the base terminal of the KT 829 transistor. It is here as a key. The result is a pulsed current through the LEDs.

How is this car strobe powered? With our own hands we need to run a couple of wires to the terminals car battery. It is imperative to monitor the battery charge level.

If you put this together correctly simple diagram, you can immediately see how the device works. If suddenly the brightness is not enough, then this is regulated by selecting the appropriate resistance.

You can use an old or Chinese lantern as a housing for the device.

Another strobe light circuit

This LED strobe, made with your own hands according to this principle, can also be powered from a car battery. Diodes will provide protection against reverse polarity. An ordinary crocodile is used as fastener here. It needs to be attached to the high-voltage contact of the first spark plug on the engine. Next, the pulse will pass through resistors and a capacitor and arrive at the input of the trigger. By that time, this input will already be turned on by a one-shot device.

Before the pulse, the one-shot device is in normal mode. The direct trigger output is low. The inverse input is, accordingly, high. A capacitor connected with a plus to the inverse output will be charged through a resistor.

A high-level pulse triggers a monostable, which switches the trigger and serves to charge the capacitor through a resistor. After 15 ms, the capacitor will be fully charged and the trigger will switch to normal mode.

As a result, the one-shot device will respond to this with a synchronous sequence of rectangular pulses with a duration of approximately 15 ms. The duration can be adjusted by replacing the resistor and capacitor.

The pulses of the second microcircuit are up to 1.5 ms. During this period, transistors are opened, which represent an electronic switch. Current then flows through the LEDs. A strobe light for a car works on this principle (whether it was made with your own hands or not does not matter - both devices shine the same way).

The current passing through the LEDs is much greater than the rated current. But, since the flashes are short-lived, the LEDs will not fail. The brightness will be enough to use this useful device even during the daytime.

This strobe light can be assembled with your own hands in the housing of the same long-suffering flashlight.

How to operate the device?

By assembling the device according to one of the given diagrams, you can simply and easily, and most importantly, accurately adjust the ignition on carburetor engines, check the correct operation of spark plugs and coils, and control the operation of the advance angle regulators.

To set the ignition as correctly as possible, it is usually assumed that the mixture is ignited a couple of degrees before the piston reaches the highest point. This angle is called the "lead angle". As the crankshaft speed increases, the angle should also increase. So, this angle is set at idle, and then it is necessary to check the correct setting in all operating modes of the unit.

Setting the ignition

We start and warm up the engine. Now we power our LED strobe and connect the sensor. Now you need to point the device at the mark on the timing case and find the mark on the flywheel. If the moment is broken, then the marks will be quite far from each other. By rotating the timing case, ensure that the marks match. When you have found this position, lock the distributor.

Then it's time to rev up. The marks will diverge, but this is a completely normal situation. This is how the ignition is set up using a strobe light.

So, we found out how to make a LED strobe with your own hands.